Head west from Havana, through the province of Artemisa along the Autopista Este-Oeste, and in about two hours you will find yourself in the province of Pinar del Río. Not only is it one of the most unique, scenic and downright gorgeous areas of the country, but it is also home to the island’s famed tobacco farms in its Vuelta Abajo region. My first visit to Finca Montesino came back in January 2013, an unexpected stop set up by my friend and tour guide for my first visit to the most famous tobacco growing regions in the world. Upon arrival at the property, I was greeted by Aulojeo Montesino, the strapping farmer whose family name graces the property and who has features that would rival the most envied male American celebrities. The farm is expansive with rolling hills packed with tobacco plants that he proudly says will go primarily be used as wrappers on Cohiba cigars. As such, the walls of the house’s front room where visitors are invited in for a cigar, coffee and a glass of Guayabita del Pinar, is filled with photos of Cohiba cigars as well as a few articles about the farm and maps of the region. In addition to the hospitality ...
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